The Bosun Dinghy

The centre has a fleet of 24 Bosun dinghies.

The British Navy has its own design of sailing dinghy called Bosuns, carried on board larger vessels and used for recreation, specifically team racing (picture a best of seven series: Officers vs. Enlisted). The 14ft. BOSUN SAILING DINGHY was designed in 1963 to be a tough, stable craft, able to operate easily from ship or shore, fast enough to be rewarding to sail, sailor proof and to require the minimum of maintenance, suitable for open water sailing with built in buoyancy to support four persons, capable of being righted and sailed away without outside assistance, and to have stability suitable for training and encouraging learners. They are sailed world-wide by H.M. Forces. Apparently a Bosun is not an official Bosun class dinghy until it has withstood the drop test – in which they raise the dinghy one meter above the deck of an aircraft carrier and drop it. This is why they weigh 375lbs.

Bosun Guide

Rigging a Bosun	Sailing to windward
Sailing off the wind	Tuning a Bosun
Capsizing and Towing

Rigging a Bosun

Having uncovered the boat (make sure it is yours) check over the gear, ensuring that it is in sound condition and nothing is missing. The first step is to put up the mast, this operation is best done with the assistance of your crew; however if it should be necessary to do this single handed, the following procedure has been found to be relatively simple:
1. Lay the mast along the boat, with the heel in the step and upper section of the mast extending aft over the transom, thread the forestay tail around the block in the stem fitting.
2. Attach the shrouds
3. Walk the mast forward, raising it until it is upright, secure the shock cord around the mast at deck level, tighten the forestay tail and secure it.
Once up, the final fiddling and adjustments may be made. As a basic position the mast should be adjusted so that it is vertical in the boat when viewed from astern, and raked aft slightly. To start with in order to get the rake correct, try the thickness of a finger (3/8 of an inch) between the bulkhead (at foredeck level) and the mast.
The shrouds are tensioned by tightening the forestay on the rack provided, it will require both hands to get the tension right. Now, and this is very important, the shroud attachments should be checked for security, bottle screws should be locked with wire, shackles tightened, and clevis pins split pinned to prevent them falling out.
Having ensured that the mast won’t fall down, the jib is clipped onto the forestay and the main sail threaded onto the boom. The battens are fitted into the mainsail; they should extend to the end of the pockets, providing a good fit. The flexible end of the batten should be inboard, and the softest battens in the top pockets
The jib is now hoisted and tensioned, using the down haul and rack, once again using two hands. Each make of jib requires a different setting, a useful starting point is to line up the mitre seam with the sheet lead to the cam cleat. The tack should end up about two or three inches above the foredeck. After the jib has been tensioned, release the forestay one or two notches on the rack. This ensures that most of the strain is taken by the jib luff wire and allows a certain increase in rake whilst beating to windward.
Having moved the boat almost into the wind, the mainsail is fully hoisted with the gooseneck fitting loosened off. When the halyard is fastened, under tension, the gooseneck is pulled down until a crease begins to appear in the sail alongside the mast; at this point you have gone too far (except for heavy weather), so loosen off very slightly. It should be possible to flex the bolt rope ½ inch or so with two fingers.
Now adjust the clew outhaul relieving any downward pressure on the boom. The correct tension is that which gives the best sail shape, this is usually at a point where the horizontal creases appear parallel to the boom. Secure the outhaul and tension the kicking strap until the creases parallel to the mast and boom disappear.
The object of this rather detailed sail setting procedure is to get the following conditions while sailing:
1. The sails to set in a smooth, crease free curve.
2. The maximum fullness approximately one-third back from the mast (even further back in light airs but under no conditions further forward).
3. The last one-third of the sail relatively flat.
4. In general, a good smooth aerofoil section.
A few points to assist sail setting:
1. The black bands on the mast and boom are the outer limits of the sails, for the purpose of class rules. They should not be used as marks for sail setting; in fact they will only be reached in heavy weather with a full sized mainsail, and many sails have been spoilt by people trying to reach the black bands with an undersized main.
2. Tightening the clew will remove fullness from the mainsail.
3. Tensioning the mainsail bolt rope will pull the fullness forward (towards the mast).
4. Tightening the kicking strap will tend to bend the mast and remove the fullness from the mainsail. It will remove twist from the main but may cause unwanted creases in a badly stretched sail. If there is more than one kicking strap tension, which provides a good sail shape, then leave this adjustment until you are afloat.
5. A crease in front of the batten pockets is due to the battens being too long, or more likely, too stiff at their inboard ends. This effect is particularly noticeable at the top batten where, in extreme cases, the sail takes up a kinked effect and the curvature is replaced by two flats. Beware of making battens too short however as this can cause the leech to become too ‘floppy’.
6. If you still can’t get the sail to set to your satisfaction, there are a few dodges left which will be covered under the section on tuning.
At this stage, put up the racing flag, leaving the spinnaker until last; the reason for this is that it is very easy to go wrong as no doubt you will find out at some time or other. Because of this tendency it is wise to adopt a set procedure in the hope that you will eliminate embarrassing mistakes.
A few points that may help you are:
1. When the spinnaker is hoisted out of its stowage, it and its sheets should be outside the shrouds, forestay and jib sheets.
2. It should be free from twists etc.
3. It should be simple to hoist.
4. When stowed, the spinnaker sheets and halyard should not interfere with the normal sailing of the boat.
One solution is to hoist the spinnaker outside the forestay and jib; and led the sheets outside everything, to the after sheet leads. (Tie the sheets together or put stopper knots in). Then lower the spinnaker to one side and pull it into the boat underneath the jib sheets. Stow the sail into the stowage in the front bulkhead and using the slip just aft of the shroud, keep the halyard clear of the jib sheet.
The advantage of this method is that having been up correctly, the spinnaker is stowed and nothing is disturbed or disconnected. (What came down must go up – we hope). To aid stowage, most spinnakers have coloured seams: Red – Port, Green – Starboard.
At last we are ready to get the boat launched, just a final check over:
1. Is the mainsheet free from twists and running freely?
2. Have all the sheets got figure-of-eight knots in their ends?
3. Does your crew know what to do?
4. Are you certain of the course?
5. Have you paid your entry fee?
6. Have you signed on?
7. Have you collected your safety tally?
8. Have you got a protest flag?
9. Have you got a life jacket, is it serviceable?
10. Do you know what the tide will do throughout the race?
11. Is the bung in?
12. Is the rudder in the boat?
Launch the boat and fit the rudder and tiller. Ensure that the rudder is fully down and tighten the wing nut to remove any slackness. Now sail around to get the feel of the boat and take the opportunity to check the set of sails. If the kicking strap has not been finally adjusted, now is the time to do it. A simple effective way of doing this is as follows:
1. Sail off onto a broad reach to check the set of the sail.
2. Luff head to wind, haul in on the main sheet and adjust the kicking strap as necessary (to attempt this on any other point of sailing places unnecessary strain on the kicking strap, and the crew).
3. Sail off onto a broad reach to check the set of the sail. Repeat this procedure until satisfied that the kicking strap adjustment is correct (usually this is when the mainsail leech appears to be nearly straight, ie minimum twist).

Sailing to Windward

When beating, the object is to get to a point windward as quickly as possible. This may be achieved in two ways:

By pointing very high (ie close to the wind) and accepting the resulting loss of speed through the water.
By sailing freer, therefore covering a greater distance but at a better speed through the water.

Which of these extremes is best depends upon a number of factors: wind strength, sea state, strength and direction of the tide etc. Failing the presence of a computer and instruments to measure speed, direction etc, some simple rules are required to achieve optimum performance. In order to devise these rules one must understand the principles of sailing to windward.

The Basic Rules for Beating to Windward

The boat should be sailed upright, except in very light airs when the boat should be heeled slightly to leeward. This helps the sails to hold their shape by their own weight and also reduces the hull wetted surface area, as does moving the crew weight forward.
In order to get most drive from the sails, there is only one optimum angle between the sail and the relative wind for any one wind strength (on a particular sail shape).
In order to get to windward in the shortest time, there is only one optimum angle between the sail and the boat for any one strength of wind ( on a particular sail shape).
It may be seen that if the wind shifts whilst beating, for both points (b) and (c) to be corrected, it is no use sheeting in or out. One must change the direction the boat is pointing, keeping the sail/boat angle (c) constant and re-establishing the sail/wind angle (b).

In Practice

In practice, the above is achieved by cleating the jib, hauling the main in the desired amount, and sailing by use of the tiller. As a reference, the leading edge of the jib is kept just prior to stalling by slowly pointing the boat closer to the wind until a point on the jib (usually just above the mitre seam, about 2 inches back from the luff wire) tends to lift to windward. If the sail actually lifts to windward, then you have gone too far into the wind. You must bear away slightly, and start to come up into wind again. This action produces a hovering about the optimum sail/wind angle (Principle (b) ), which will lead to that hard-to-describe ‘feeling’ that is transmitted through the tiller.

In order to obtain the best sail/boat angle, (Principle (c) ), the jib should be pulled in fully, but not so tight that the fullness of the jib is being lost (more precise details later). If you have a superhuman crew, check this point; some of them aren’t satisfied until they have part of the sail showing through the fairlead. Pull in the mainsail so that in light winds the lower third of the leech stands up to windward, as the wind increases allow the boom to go out over the quarter, thus opening up the lower part of the leech and inducing twist higher up; as the wind increases and the boom is allowed to go out, it is important to retain the kicking strap tension.
To keep the boat upright (Principle (a) ), the crew and helmsman will have to shift their weight constantly, and if the wind is strong, the helmsman may have to ease the mainsheet as a temporary measure, until the crew sits out or the boat is pointed higher into the wind (to ease the heeling moment).

To tie the three points up:

Whilst beating in heavy weather, if the wind swings aft (frees), initially the boat will start to heel. This is corrected by easing the main and sitting out further. The tiller is pushed to leeward; as the boat responds and the heeling moment is reduced, the main is pulled into original position, and the swing of the boat (to windward) is corrected by pulling the tiller to windward.
We end up (we hope) with the boat upright (a), the same sail/wind angle (b) and the sails in the same position relative to the boat (c). What has changed however, is the direction which the boat is pointing. If the wind swings the other way, the reverse action should be taken
So, it can be seen that, in certain circumstances, the helmsman will be playing the mainsheet, his tiller and weight in order to maintain the three conditions.
To assist helmsmen to play sheet in heavy winds, an extra purchase can be taken on the main sheet tackle.

In Very Light Airs

The most important (and often the most difficult) point about light weather sailing is to find out where the wind is coming from. It is advisable to have light tell-tales on the shrouds and on the leading part of the jib, and the helmsman and crew must look carefully for external wind indicators, smoke from a chimney ashore or from vessels afloat, catspaws on the water etc. If the helmsman or crew is a smoker, then this may be used to advantage to indicate the wind direction. The plate should be fully down and the crew’s weight well forward.
It may be necessary to heel the boat some 10 degrees further than the optimum. (0 to 5 degrees) to leeward, in order to get some shape into the sail. The crew can be of great assistance by not distracting the helmsman’s concentration yet remaining interested in his surroundings. The jib should be let out ½ inch – 1 ½ inches from tight, to ensure a full section. Finally, don’t pinch, sit still concentrate and watch for wind shifts. The crew can sometimes help by holding the boom over to leeward.

Medium Airs

The jib should be eased ½ inch from fully tight, plate down, and crew’s weight well forward. The crew should check that the curve of the stem is just submerged.

Heavy Airs

The main problem in heavy airs is keeping the boat upright and maintaining forward speed. As the boat heels, the bow tends to swing windward (weather helm). Correction of this tendency by use of the tiller causes further heeling, the rudder acts as a stalled hydrofoil and causes a braking effect. The crew should be sitting out fully with loose toe-straps to get maximum effect. They may also have to move aft slightly to prevent the bow from submerging excessively. To ease the heeling moment, the boat should be pointed high into the wind and the sails flattened by hauling then in tight and tightening the kicking strap. To reduce uncontrollable weather-helm, pull up the centreboard fractionally; this moves the underwater pivot point (centre of lateral resistance) aft.
Finally, whilst beating in heavy weather, flatten sails, anticipate the windshifts, sit out hard, pinch if necessary in order to keep the boat upright. Absolutely plumb upright, there is no easy way out, the boat must be upright, so work hard and keep the boat level and the mast upright.

Conclusion

You will find it generally better to keep a Bosun as close to the wind as possible except in very rough conditions when it pays to bear away to achieve the necessary speed to drive through the sea.

Sailing off the wind

The main difference between sailing off the wind and beating is that whilst reaching or running, you can point the boat directly where you wish to go, then adjust sails, centre-plate, crew position etc, to reap maximum benefit from the wind.

The Basic Principles of Sailing Off the Wind

The boat must be sailed upright.
In order to get the most drive between the sails, there is only one optimum angle between the sail and the relative wind for any one strength of wind (on a particular sail shape).
It may be seen that, if the wind shifts while sailing off the wind, all you have to do is to move the sails relative to the boat in order to keep the sail/wind angle constant (Principle (b) ).

In Practice

In practice, a straight course is sailed and the above sail/wind angle is obtained by easing out the jib until it starts to lift (as it did when you luffed the boat whilst beating). Once again if the sail actually lifts, the crew has eased out too mush sheet and should pull the jib in slightly. It is constant letting out and pulling in (or playing) of the jib that gives a hovering about the correct sail/wind angle. The jib should not be cleated whilst sailing off the wind.
With the jib correctly set, the mainsail is eased out until it starts to be backed by the jib (the first third of the main starts to lift to windward); at this point, pull in the main slightly. Because the main is set from the jib, it can be seen how important a good crew is whilst sailing off the wind. Not all of the centreplate is required to prevent making leeway, so pull the plate up as far as possible until only a trace of weather helm is felt, but not so far as to diminish the ability to steer.

Running and Reaching in Light Airs

Whilst running or reaching in light airs, the points regarding smoking, sitting still and concentrating apply. The crew should be sat well forward in order to minimise wetted surface and also to rake the mast forward. On the run, goosewing the jib, get the crew to sit to leeward and steady the boom. It will also help if the boat is trimmed to windward, so that weather helm is reduced by more evenly distributing the sail about the boat’s centre line. Only sufficient plate to prevent crabbing is required. In very light airs raise the rudder blade. Be sure to lower it again before starting to beat or you will crack the rudderstock.

Running in Heavy Weather

Most of the points appertaining to running in light airs apply to heavy weather except that the crew will have to be a lot further aft in order to prevent the bow from burying and more plate will be required. If the boat starts to roll, pull in the mainsail lower plate and move aft (to get a wider, flatter section of the hull in the water and to lift the bow). A tighter kicking strap will help to control roll by reducing twist in the mainsail.

Planing

The secret of planing is; keeping the boat upright, drive the boat hard, set the weight of the crew well aft and not making any violent movements whilst actually planing.

Getting on to the Plane

To deal with the simple aspect first, the helmsman should sit on the side deck about level with the rear thwart, whilst the crew is best positioned astride the centreboard box and sitting on the centre thwart. As a gust hits the boat the helmsman leans out whilst the crew will be leaning against the helmsman’s legs and on a reaching plane he will have to be on the side deck, sitting out.
As experience is gained, the helmsman should look for the gusts coming on the water, anticipate them. Warn the crew, and have the boat set up ready to plane before the gust arrives. In this way the maximum benefit is obtained from the gust.
To keep a boat level when a gust hits you, apart from sitting out, one can ease the mainsheet, but this causes a loss of drive. The best approach is to ease the mainsail slightly and bear away. This actin puts you on to a broader reach with less heeling moment.
The maxim is: Keep the boat under the mast. As you get on to the plane, the boat speeds up and the apparent wind will move forward, so be ready to pull the sails in slightly, especially the jib.
The correct amount of centre plate is important because excessive plate will cause difficulty in keeping the boat level whilst not enough allows the boat to slide sideways and absorbs the extra drive from the gust.

Once on the Plane

Beware of making large or violent movements. To keep the boat upright, use the mainsheet for small or instant adjustments and the tiller to make large corrections, remember, if the boat heels leewards bear away, if to windward luff up, ie keep the boat under the mast. If the crew can’t see the jib, or is too frightened to look, the helmsman should yell instructions as well as the routine abuse. A good plane in hairy conditions depends upon a firm hand at the tiller, a certain amount of force skilfully applied, and confidence. This confidence can only be obtained by experience and practising when the going is really rough; at the same time you can brush up on your capsize drill. It is vital that the crew reacts quickly to wind shifts, if the boat heels to windward on a plane, the helmsman is invariably somewhere just aft of the rudder and in no condition to perform rapid balancing manoeuvres.

Spinnaker

The actual drill for hoisting and lowering the spinnaker is one of personal taste, but whatever method is adopted it needs to be quick, safe and reliable. One well tried method is as follows:
The halyard is permanently attached to the head of the spinnaker. The sheet and guy are led to the after fairleads and tied together. The spinnaker, when not in use, is stowed in the front bulkhead, with the halyard kept out of the way, using the forward ‘snap in’ spinnaker fairlead.
The elastic topping lift is attached to an open hook, also attached to this hook is the terylene downhaul, the lower end of which is fed through a tubular cleat mounted on the mast. The spinnaker pole has an eye midway between the two plunger type end fittings (which are interconnected with a line). These fittings are arranged so that the mast fitting and spinnaker tack are hooked from underneath (plunger on top).
Prior to hoisting, the halyard is released from the ‘snap in’ fairlead and the spinnaker hoisted direct from its stowage by the halyard (if it has been stowed correctly it will go straight up with no twists). Once the halyard has been made fast, the crew fastens the pole to the spinnaker tack, hooks the topping lift/downhaul on to the pole, pushes the pole outboard and fits the inboard end to the mast.
The guy (the one to the pole) is led through the front ‘snap in # fairlead, without removing it from the after fairlead, and is cleated in the vacant jib sheet cleat. The crew can now take over the spinnaker sheet leaving the helmsman free to deal with the mainsail and tiller.
The spinnaker pole should be adjusted so that it is at right angles to both the mast and the wind; this will present the largest area of sail in clear wind. The sheet is then eased until the luff of the spinnaker is just curling inboard, at this point the sail will be pulling with maximum efficiency. It may help if the spinnaker halyard is eased a little to get the spinnaker away from the mainsail and thus prevent back-winding. Generally, it is of doubtful value to carry the spinnaker unless the wind is on or abaft the beam.
Whilst carrying a spinnaker on a reach, more centre plate will be required than the corresponding reach without a spinnaker. This is due to the increase in side force which will cause leeway. In order to compensate for the extra plate you will have to sit out further.
As the tension on the rigging as a whole depends on the set of the jib, it is inadvisable to lower the jib when setting the spinnaker, unless there is some obvious advantage in doing so, eg a very long dead run.

Lowering the Spinnaker

To lower the spinnaker:-
1. Remove the pole
2. Gather the foot of the spinnaker from the clew.
3. Pull the spinnaker down under the jib sheets and stow it.
4. Stow the halyard and pole

NOTE 1 The spinnaker is preferably lowered to leeward but may be taken down to windward if the boat is running and the sail will be required on that side when next hoisted.

NOTE 2 The tack may be released

NOTE 3 Whilst hoisting and lowering the spinnaker, the helmsman can assist the crew by pointing the boat as far downwind as possible.

Tuning

The reason for tuning a boat is to produce a harmonised relationship between sails and mast, the hull and the crew. To get most from the boat, each of these three factors must be at top efficiency. These aspects will be considered individually to start with.

Sail and Mast

The sails and mast must be considered as one unit because any bending or moving of the mast will affect the sails. The basic rigging of the mainsail and the jib was dealt with earlier on, however there are some additional points that may be useful.
A full section is required for reaching.
A flatter section is required for beating.
A flatter sail section is required in heavy weather than in light airs (to reduce heeling moment).
In heavy weather the fullness in the sail is moved aft, especially on the bet, by the action of the wind. This causes an increase in weather helm, however this can be counteracted by moving the fullness forward, by hauling down on the kicking strap and Cunningham holes to tighten the luff.

The Crew

The crew must be fit and able to operate efficiently, for example: the toe straps should be adjusted so that the crew is comfortable yet as far out as possible, the ‘drills and routines’ adopted must be understood and suited to the crews limitations.

The Hull

Before you start to tune the boat, you must evaluate the boat’s performance and it is for this reason that this section on tuning comes after that on various points of sailing. It will be necessary to decide if the uninspiring (or brilliant) performance was due to the sails, the hull, the crew or the relationship between these factors. If it is decided that it is the relationship which is at fault and typical symptoms are: the boat carries excessive weather helm, the boat feels dead, the boat won’t point to windward, the boat went well whilst beating but was slow downwind, or vice versa, then you can start tuning.
The process of tuning is one of trial and error, with certain guide lines to direct what action should be taken.
Whilst beating, a slight amount of weather helm is desirable. This means that if the tiller is let go, the boat would be balanced in such a manner that it would head up into the wind (centre of pressure of the sails is aft of the centre of lateral resistance). The reason that this weather helm is desirable is twofold (a) to get lift to windward from the rudder (without stalling it), and (b) to provide the helmsman with a definite ‘feel’ so that he can sense the boat’s balance.
If the general performance of the boat is poor or the boat feels dead it is probable that the mast rake is incorrect. The rake requirements for upwind and downwind sailing are different and a solution must be found which enables both points of sailing to be accommodated with equal efficiency.
One solution is to slacken the standing rigging while keeping the jib halyard tight. As the mast rocks back the jib luff will be tightened, thus preventing it from sagging to leeward while beating. Offwind, the mast will rock forward thus improving the downwind performance. This is achieved by hoisting the jib with the mast in its extreme forward position. When the jib is hoisted, slacken the tail up the forestay so that it has about 3 inches of slack then resecure.

Odds and Ends

There are numerous sailmakers who provide Bosun sails most of which have different characteristics. The best advice that can be given to the novice is to seek advice from a good competitor who uses the same make of sails.
In general a flat mainsail should be matched with a flat jib and vice versa but flat and full sails should never be combined.
The fullness of mainsail compared with the fullness of the jib will affect the position of the centre of pressure, ie with a flat jib and full mainsail the weather helm will increase, therefore to get the boat well balanced the mast will have to be raked forward.
If a Cunningham eye is not already fitted, this is easily done and can be of great assistance in heavy weather, especially when beating to windward. It consists of a reinforced eye 4 to 5 inches above the tack. Through the eye is passed a length of line, the free end of which goes through a cleat. When beating, this line is pulled down, transmitting tension to the luff thereby pulling the fullness forward and also flattening the sail. (If you don’t understand why this is desirable, re-read the beginning of the section on tuning).
All sails should be measured and signed by a recognised measurer.
On completion of sailing in a stiff breeze, wash the sails in fresh water (not only when you capsize).
Fold or hang up the sails; if folded, make sure that the creases will be along the line of the airflow.
If the boat sails better on one tack than the other it is probably due to an inherent fault in that the jib halyard is lead to the starboard side of the mast and, under tension tends to make the mast bend to port more than to starboard. This can be alleviated by securing the halyard in front of the mast with a cord tied between the spinnaker pole rings and then leading it down to the tensioning rack. Only a short length of halyard is then left to compress to the spar. Additional points to check are:
Asymmetrical main sheets (most Bosuns without sheet horses have this fault)

Unequal length shrouds

Bent mast

Twisted rudder

Twisted or bent centre plate

Conclusion

In conclusion, rely on expertise not luck, because far too much in racing is attributable to luck.
Learn the Racing Rules and how to apply them without becoming a ‘rule bosun’.
The meteorological expert will have anticipated a ‘lucky’ breeze that the ‘other’ boats got (and made sure that he was in a position to benefit from it).
The good helmsman doesn’t get himself into a position where he will lose places if the boat in front capsizes.
Fittings don’t often fail on a well prepared and often inspected boat.
Before relying on the rules to prevent himself from being balked, the good helmsman evaluates the other competitors knowledge of, and likelihood of obeying the rules.
Sailing covers all the aspects that affect a sailing boat, therefore luck can be virtually removed with knowledge, experience and most of all anticipation.
Still, good sailing and the best of luck, figuratively speaking of course.

Capsizing and Towing

Capsizing

If you capsize, stay with your boat

Bosun dinghies contain sufficient built-in buoyancy to support both boat and crew when completely filled with water. It is extremely dangerous to leave a floating boat and attempt to swim for the shore. If all attempts to right the boat fail, stay with your dinghy and await rescue, it’s far safer
Two points remembered before you set sail can make all the difference between a ‘successful’ capsize and the embarrassment of being rescued, laughed at, commiserated with or just plain drowned.
1. Always wear a lifejacket
2. Always carry a bailer attached to your boat by cord.
When a Bosun capsizes it will often float on its lower buoyancy tank and can quite often be righted and sailed within seconds. Be very careful to avoid losing your boat and your reputation when righting. A Bosun will often get under way as soon as it is upright with or without crew. Make sure you are with it!

When you Capsize

When you capsize, the RYA approved righting drill is extremely effective for getting a Bosun back up and sailing again. This drill may be summarised, step by step as follows:
1. Helm and crew drop onto water between boom and boat, each checks verbally that the other is all right.
2. Helm swims aft and holds onto rudder, crew frees mainsheet and passes it to helm, crew then swims aft to rudder.
3. Crew holds rudder, helm using mainsheet as a lifeline swims forward to centre plate, and by holding centre plate prevents boat from inverting.
4. Crew swims forward between boom and boat, frees highside jib sheet and throws it over the boat to the helm.
5. Crew lies in boat on the side deck with one knee and one shoulder inside the boat.
6. Helm climbs up the boat’s bottom, using the jib sheet and bilge rail. (NOTE it is not necessary to stand on the centre plate).
7. As the boat comes upright the crew will be scooped up with it. Once up, the helm holds onto the side of the boat, crew frees jib and mainsheets and assists the helm to climb aboard.
8. Sort out the sails, bale out the water and sail away.

If Boat is Inverted

Get out from underneath

Push the boat head to wind, pull jib sheet through fairleads then helm and crew stand on gunwhale or bilge keel on the opposite side to the fairlead and using the jib sheet haul the boat up until the mast is lying on the surface of the water.
Helm, using jib sheet holds the boat in this position, crew swims round the boat, lowers the centre plate (taking care NOT to hit the helm with it), then right the boat as above.
HELM and crew drop into water between boom and boat – communicate
HELM - holds onto and checks rudder CREW – free mainsheet, pass to helm
HELM – uses mainsheet as lifeline swims to centre plate CREW – holds rudder
CREW – throws high side jib sheet to helm
CREW – lies in boat on side deck one shoulder and one knee inside boat HELM - climbs up using jib sheet and bilge rail

NOTE : If you must stand on centre plate, keep your feet close to the boat – or you will cause damage

HELM – hold side CREW – free jib and mainsheets rock boat and help helm inboard sort out the sails, bail out the water and sail away

If Mast Fouls Mud

This operation must be carefully carried out, haste here can quite often end in rather loud explosive noises. If your mast is definitely stuck:

Clear jib and spinnaker sheet jamb cleats.
Cut or cast off the mast erecting tackle and the jib downhaul.
Fold the mast aft.
Right the boat the in the same way as that detailed above.
If a rescue boat is sent to help you, remember to advise the coxwain to approach you from your lee so that it does not drift down onto you, risking fouling of gear or yourselves on the screw etc.

Being Towed

When joining a tow, make sure your halyards are cleared away for lowering the sails.
Join the tow from ahead, letting it overtake you as you edge in. The tow has orders not to stop, so don’t make a mess of joining it.
When being towed by a line from another boat, take dry turns (ie no hitches) round the mast or sailing thwart and keep the end to hand.
When towing a boat astern, take dry turns around the midships thwart, and lead the painter in over the quarter. DO NOT make fast to the sailing horse or your own stern painter (you may carry away the horse or strain the transom). DO NO lead the other boat’s painter in under the sailing horse, as he may sheer off to one side and capsize you.
Raise the centre plate or you will probably capsize when the tow gathers way.
If the boat becomes bow heavy she will be difficult to control so keep aft when being towed.
Unless the tow is very short, say under ¼ mile and the weather is very calm. Sails should always be lowered to avoid making the boat unmanageable and to stop them flogging which wears out the stitching.
Steer so that you are slightly on the quarter of the boat ahead and such a position that you do not interfere with his steering.