The Access 303 Wide Seater Dinghy

The centre has a fleet of 4 Access 303 Wide dinghies.

The 303 Wide is ideal for those sailors who wish to take their sailing a stage further. This boat has a taller rig with the addition of a jib so there are two extra control lines to handle, but the heavier keel, same steering and similar hull design parameters to the smaller 2.3 ensures these boats are also extremely safe and easy to sail. The Access 303 Wide will balance perfectly when sailed single-handed, yet also balance when sailed by two full sized adults. The end result is an inexpensive, very versatile, exciting, yet very relaxing and comfortable boat to sail.

Access 303W Guide

Specifications

Design Features of Access

Access Dinghies are designed with a hull form and other features which combine to give considerable stability. There needs to be a set of rules which we must follow to continue our excellent safety record and prevent any accidents. The stability of Access 2.3 and 303 Dinghies is reliant upon the following factors.

SEATING

 Because the placement of sailor’s weight affects stability it is important that people remain seated low in the boat. We therefore, have to look at using quick release velcro straps to hold them in place, provided the keel is locked fully down.

CENTREBOARDS

 IIt is most important that the keel be fully down when sailing. The hole 1/3 down the keel is there purely to facilitate sailing off a beach, and under no circumstances should people with disabilities be allowed to sail around with the keel held in this position

There is provision to lock the keel fully down so as even in a "knock down" it remains in place. It is imperative that the locking pin be inserted whenever the boat is used.

Invariably people sailing the electric boat need to be strapped into it. Never strap someone into a boat unless the centreboard locking pin is inserted through the c/b handle.

Locking the keel— Insert the long aluminium pin through the c/b handle and into the drilled hole in the console. Push the pin right in so that only the knot at the end of the rope is visible.

REEFING

Being a displacement type hull extra sail area in strong winds does not mean more speed, all it does is bury the boat in the water and make it more difficult to handle. In a breeze it is always better to reef to suit the stronger gusts.

If an Access Dinghy needs to be towed, it is safer and easier to tie the dinghy close alongside and remove the rudder blade so that the dinghy cannot be "steered" in the wrong direction.

People with disabilities need the keel down and because many are unable to raise and lower the keel to improve sailing performance and also unable to adjust the size of the sail by reefing it is discriminatory to allow abler bods to make these adjustments during a race.

Maximum Weight for Access 303 Wide

Solo Sailor = 120KG / 275Lbs

Tandem sailors = 150Kg / 340Lbs

The extra weight for 2 sailors is permissible as the centre of gravity of 2 sailors is presumed to be lower than a single sailor of the same combined weight.

How to Rig an Access

STEPPING THE MAIN MAST

1. With the mainsail reefing line knot positioned as far as it will go on the port (left) side.

2. Loosen the knob under the console on the reefing drum

3. Carefully step the mast making sure the foot is firmly in the step.

4. With the sail full tighten the knob to lock the reefing drum onto the mast.

STEPPING THE FOREMAST.

1. Unhook the headsail reefing line shock cord hook and set up the reefing line in a loop to complete a full turn around the foremast reefing drum.

2. Step the mast, fit the reefing line and re-tension the shockcord.

3. Rotate the mast to move the reefing line knot as far as it will go on the port side but still leave the sail pointing aft.

4. Unroll the sail and reeve the two sheets through their respective fairleads and cleats. NB. Make sure the sheets lead forward of the mainmast.

5. Tie a figure of 8 stopper knot in the end of each sheet.

6. Position the fairleads towards the aft end of the track for a full sail.

FITTING THE BOOM

The boom should be kept tidy with no loose ends.

1. Untie and sort out the two ropes.

2. Position the boat facing into the wind.

3. Push the rowlock at the front end of the boom onto the bobbin.

4. Take the outhaul which runs along the boom and shackle it onto the corner of the sail (called the clew).

5. Pull the sail out to the boom end by pulling the outhaul tail and cleat it at the front end of the boom.

6. Now sort out the other rope, (called the sheet), and shackle it onto the rope traveller which runs across at the stern of the boat.

7. The other end of the sheet passes through the sheave on the forward end of the console. Feed it through so you can work it from the seat.

8. Tie a stopper knot at the end of the sheet.

REEFING THE MAINSAIL:

shortening sail area

1. Pull on the port reefing line to reduce sail area

2. Pull the Starboard line to increase sail area.

3. Never pull on and "push" both sides at once.

4. Use the white "clamcleats" on the left (port) side of the console to cleat the reefing line or the sail will unroll.

5. You can put one complete turn of sail around the mast without adjusting the outhaul.

6. To reef further the outhaul needs to be released to allow the sail to travel forward along the boom.

7. Conversely, when unreefing, you need to pull on the outhaul.

8. Always recleat the outhaul in its white "clamcleat" positioned on the boom.

9. The idea is not to flatten the sail along the boom as it should have enough slack to form a gentle curve.

REEFING AND FURLING THE HEADSAIL.

1. Uncleat the headsail sheets before attempting to reef.

2. Use the port reefing line to reef, the starboard to unreef.

3. Remember to cleat the reefing line (use the "clamcleat on the console port side) or the sail will unroll.

4. Move the sheet fairleads forward on the tracks when sailing with reefed headsail.

THE STEERING

1. Make sure the steering lines pass under the joystick correctly.

2. Fit the rudder making sure the rope traveller is above the tiller.

3. Remove the spring clip and pass the clevis pin up through the hole at the end of the tiller. Re-insert the clip.

4. Fit the alloy joystick extension.

LAUNCHING

1. Pass the bow line(called a painter) through the guide ring at the bow and fasten it around the mast with a bowline. (a knot which is always easy to untie)

2. Use the short alloy tube to pin the centreboard up when moving the boat around onshore.

3. Pin the centreboard in the half way position if you need to move the boat around in shallow water.

4. DO NOT ALLOW ANYONE TO SAIL WITHOUT THE CENTREBOARD FULLY DOWN OR THEY MAY CAPSIZE..

5. Use the long alloy pin to lock the centreboard down.

6. NEVER USE SEAT BELTS OR HARNESSES UNLESS THE CENTREBOARD IS LOCKED DOWN.